The “intelligence” of the IsoteQ® building elements lies in the fact that they can be used even without skills, making the construction works easy, quick and clean. Ask for our technical advice and build the home of your dreams…
….or build an IsoteQ® house in 10 steps!
In order to be able to utilize the advantages coming from the dimensional accuracy of the IsoteQ® elements maximally, it is worth to pay requisite attention to checking the dimensional accuracy and geometry of the receptor. Accurate checking and adjusting the height level is very important. IsoteQ® walls do not need special foundations, they may be executed on any ordinary structure. Their weight is more or less equal to that of brick walls.
The building has to be fitted with iron according to the instructions of the structural engineer, but the traditional single-storey buildings do not need any reinforcement apart from that of the ring beams and the lintels. The reinforcement bar can easily be placed in the footing or the blinding concrete before it hardens. The reinforcement bar of the walls can be placed into the groove developed in the plastic through-stones.
Fill in the first row halfway, execute the height settings, and continue building the wall, but only after the concrete has started to harden. (Beginners are recommended to wait until the next day.) To start the first row, ask for the personal supervision of our specialists.
After the first row, we recommend the assembling of the elements in groups of three rows, which is foolowed by the concreting up to the middle of the topmost row of elements. Of course more skilled executors may concrete a wall as tall as a storey, provided that they have adequate support. For filling in use at least C16-20KK concrete. When placing concrete, protect the elements from damage and scattered concrete: cover them with a 2 m long downspout, cut in half lengthwise, or with a U-profile used for the installation of plasterboards.
The lintel of the doors and windows should be as high as a whole row if possible. The 90 cm parapet height can easily be created with a 10 cm ordinary inner flooring. The top 5 centimetres of the ballustrade should not be treated with concrete: polystyrene cut to size should be placed here. The IsoteQ® lintel should be overhung the opening. In the overhanging, the bottom of the lintel should be cut out in order to provide free flow of the concrete, and the sized reinforcement should be positioned.
The ring elements are connected to the row under them the same way as the wall elements. The elements have to be cut to angle at the positive and negative corners and, during concreting, the possibility of dislocation has to be avoided. It can be done by a long nail or wire, or supporting from outside.
The Lego-like connection points provide a solid, stable assembly. Transporting and lifting the elements does not require a crane. The reinforcement that provides the connection of the slab and the wall structure has to be positioned corresponding to the static calculations.
The axis of the rafter distribution has to be 90 cm. The angle of inclination of the roof that can be built form it is determined by the tile overlapping (which should still provide appropriate protection against precipitation) and the kind of the tile (which can be used without extra fixing. With the tiles on the market, we recommend the construction of roofs of 22-45°, considering the the batten gauge of 33-34 cm. Around the chimney, when stiing the exit opening and the dormer windows, a wooden frame, matching the size of the opening, has to be placed. The roof elements always have to be placed progressing from the eaves towards the arris and on the weather face. The tiles have to be placed on the roof elements in a way that the water and damp channels running through the element are positioned in the middle or by the edge of the tile.
The electric wires, conduit fittings, water and heating pipes, and other pipelines are led through the chases hollowed in the 5 cm thick polystyrene layer. The chases can be hollowed out posteriorly, dust- and noise-free, without carving, with the aid of a thermo-knife. Their sizes are up to ones liking. The descent pipe of a larger drain pipe has to be placed in the cavity of the wall before concreting.
The inside covering of the walling can be plasterboard – glued (with flexible tile adhesive or plasterboard adhesive) or screwed on a batten framework, automatic white coat, tile lining, ordinary plaster. The outside covering of the walling can be Dryvit system thin-coat plaster, glued stone plaster, or various timber finishes. In the case of non-glued outside coverings, the application of corrosion-proof fastening profiles is recommended.
